Route 9 Beddington, Maine (207) 638-2301 Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner In one of those non-guidebook moments that make our pie travels truly worthwhile, Jennifer came out of this tiny combination rest area/supply store and said, in almost a mumble, “This place has pies.” We had only stopped for drinks and a pit stop about an hour out of Bangor. We were headed to Eastport with its quiet coastal charms and early bedtimes. But then Jennifer came out of the Airline, situated here on Route 9 since the late ’60s, and suggested a second look at the pie case inside, and that was all she wrote. Frank and Maryann Janusz (pronounced Janis), ex-pats from a New Jersey town not far from where we were currently living, had in three years of ownership put together a cozy, welcoming highway stop halfway between Bangor and the eastern end of the country. They work as hunting guides and do some bear trapping and tagging and other outdoorsy stuff in their spare time here in one of the wilder corners of the country. Maryann was in the back doing some pie baking when we went in. Frank was holding forth by the 15-stool counter about how he’d almost got the donut making down pat. We split a slice of the custard pie. Although the bottom crust had gone mushy by mid-afternoon, it was delicately spicy. Even Chloe the pie dog enjoyed it later in the parking lot. A hand-written list on a whiteboard gives the day’s selections: apple, blueberry, coconut custard, walnut cream and the top sellers, chocolate cream and graham cracker. Some are family recipes, and some Maryann has picked up from other sources. The Januszes also make whoopie pies, Maine’s state dessert, and sent us off down the road with two frozen ones. They’re essentially balls of chocolate cake with whipped cream filling. After a couple of those, we felt like tracking some bears. |









