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530 Cold Brook Rd. Hermon, Maine (207) 947-8732 Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner A truck stop conjures up images both good and bad for the interstate traveler, and Dysart’s, a much-publicized outpost on I-95 in the cuisine-challenged Bangor area, fills that bill to a T. A line of trucks is parked outside, and cars are pulling up to the pumps for gas. The restaurant menu includes a bit of everything, from seafood to burgers to chicken teriyaki and the best breakfast on this part of I-95. And yes, maybe a diner has to overlook a hair in the batter of his fried clams, as John did. Hey, hairnet abuse happens occasionally. Dysart’s still has some of the best people watching anywhere, with faces to match coastal Maine’s weather-beaten cragginess. And on bitter cold winter nights, the lights of this oasis at the highway exit must be a huge relief. But then there are the pies, which included sugar-free and regular apple, raspberry, peanut butter cup ice cream, Oreo ice cream, banana cream, coconut cream and graham cracker cream, not to mention pastries like banana-split puffs, sundaes, pudding and ice cream. Jennifer went for the sugarless blueberry pie, packed with a thick filling of tiny, wild Maine blueberries, tart and tasty, even if we were visiting off season. John was stumped over his choice until he saw a slice of chocolate cream go by the table, with a 2-inch pudding layer topped by another inch of cream standing up like a bouffant hairdo, with chocolate sprinkles on top. The bottom crust was so flaky it was stratified, almost like phyllo. Dysart’s has been honored for using Maine products whenever it can. And it’s known for some of its specialties, like the poutine, which is a platter of French fries smothered in gravy and cheese. Truckers even have a room of their own at Dysart’s because they don’t like the easy-listening music being played in the main dining room. But we were appalled by our lunch tab of $54, so when we saw a sign by the door asking, “What do you love most about Dysart’s?” the answer seemed obvious. It wasn’t “the prices,” it was “the pies.” |










