American Pieways reviews

YOUR GUIDES TO GREAT PIE




John Forsyth is a book author and world traveler with discriminating tastes and a storyteller's heart. He and his wife, Jennifer, are traipsing along America's backroads and "pieways" in search of good desserts by the slice and sweet stories. You can find all of their reviews linked from the home page.  Here's to good eating and good reading.


"There are lots of jokes involving pies; they’re funnier than other foods, somehow."
-- The New York Times, June 15, 2009


OUR RATINGS





One slice:
You’re in danger of suffering pie withdrawal, and no alternatives in sight.




Two slices: You used to think this was good pie, before American Pieways set you straight.





Three slices:
If pies came out of your oven this tasty, you’d start a bakery.





Four slices:
Buy another slice to go, ’cause this’ll still be good in the morning.




Five slices: Whoa! Redraw that vacation itinerary to include this pie.






Six slices: Member of the Holy Church of the Flaky Crust.

CONTACTS

 

Hiway Cafe, Rosebud, TX




1101 U.S. Hwy. 77
Rosebud, Texas
(254) 583-4444

Lunch and Dinner Tuesday-Saturday

Map


The cook came out of the kitchen at this 14-table roadside delight and, seeing a bit of our coconut meringue pie left on a plate, intoned, “The person who makes the pies doesn’t like it when they come back.” And who might that be, we asked. “A big woman in the back,” she answered.
    We gave her a look of doubt. “No. It’s me,” she finally admitted. “But you eat the rest of that.”
    At the Hiway, one answers to management if the food doesn’t hit the spot. Whether it’s the $9.25 rib eye, served with fries, green beans and bread, the $5.75 shrimp salad, the $6.25 chicken fried steak with French fries and green beans, or the coconut pie, everyone expects you to be satisfied when you’re finished. And they do expect you to finish.
    The motto here is “Not fast food but worth the wait.” We didn’t have to wait long to get our coconut dessert. Nor did we have to eat much of it, or the chocolate meringue, to know that the sweets here are made fresh. Given our mid-afternoon arrival time, no doubt hours after baking time, the meringue on the chocolate was sweating little yellow, sugary beads, but that didn’t affect the taste, which was fresh and good. The coconut had shaved bits of the fruit on top, the chocolate came laden with chips.
    On another day, we might have gotten the Ooh-la-la, which is a pastry-cream-fruit-more pastry-plus-walnuts concoction. It is a very popular dish at this café, which is constructed of corrugated metal and a polished concrete floor and has costume jewelry for sale in the corner. Framed pictures of military personnel, some going back to World War II, line the walls. “People bring ’em in,” our waitress explained, “and we hang ’em up.” Local heroes, great stuff.
    If you stopped in Waco for lunch, you’ll be about ready for something sweet by the time you get to Rosebud. No time to stop? Pull through the gravel driveway and ring the bell for service. Call it pie a la road.